Happy Veterans Day!

Good day to all you fellow vets out there! I'm blogging from the park bench here in Cruz Bay St. John waiting for the Veterans Day Parade. Like many things in islands communities nothing is on schedule and alot of confusion reigns. But who cares! I'm a retired Vet.

So I snapped this gem of a picture from the dink of Christa tugging at her mooring in Coral Bay. The mooring sits behind a reef which is from where I took the shot. i did some snorkeling off Christa bow yesterday. The reef was very nice with all kinds of tropical fish and big ole lobster lodged under a coral head. Could be dinner!

My impressions of St. John are just as billed. A pretty mellow enclave indeed. It is much more mountainous than I expected with the roads very narrow, steep with all kinds of twists. This surely will impact my running as I don't think I can handle the hills! Where I'm based out of, Coral Bay, sits on the east end of the Island. I can easily see the British Virgin Islands but a scant few miles to the east. But, Coral Bay is a very small hippie town with all kinds of interesting folks. i have to say folks seem to be very friendly. Right out of the gate Bill from Marlat and another fellow who also lives on the island, Steve have been just great. For a new person who enters an unknown environment there kindness makes all of the difference. Bill took me to Cruz Bay in his ride and pointed out all the particulars, schooled me in the bus system and pretty much welcomed me to town. Beautiful! Of course this tone is in line with Jeff and Susan from Free Spirit who offered me the use of the mooring in the first place.

So logistics will be a challenge as not everything is within arms length. But then again when everything in paradise is easy it tends to be overun which I think is why Coral Bay remains a very unique outpost. But like all beautiful places the island of St. John is under significant development pressure. But back to logistics. To get ashore I take the dink and beach her, walk along the shore line sometimes in the water and at others, during low tide along the beach. Then up to the road where it is a half hour walk to the sleepy Coral Bay village. When it is calm I will be able to take the dink into town. But the good news is the bus comes along once an hour and for a buck will take you all the way to Cruz Bay on the west end where the ferry from St. Thomas arrives. Or you can just get off in Coral Bay. As an aside hitch hiking is standard here, but you don't stick your thumb out. You point with your index finger in the direction your going which can be tough because they drive on the left side here. Go figure. This explains why on day one I was dissed as I had my thumb out! The next day the finger got me to where I needed to be. So Coral Bay does have a small market with everything one needs, some breakfast joints and a very famous open air bar called Skinny Legs.

I think that does it for today's post as I'm tired of tying. On an admin note I've added a few more pictures to my google photos and I know I may have some grammatical errors but I'm typing fast and sitting in a park.

Later

Capt Chris

St John To Port

Well it seems I have really arrived in a paradise like place. But let me explain this mornings sailing. Christa and I continue to beat to windward which as you all know I just can't stand. The conditions could always be worse, but earlier in the week the weather folk were predicting some pretty light wind. That really has not materialized and in fact later on this week the wind is supposed to pick up to 15 to 22 knots for the foreseeable future. So instead of being stuck in the large metropolis of Charlotte Amalie for weeks on end I decided to head to St. John. Anchor was up about 4:15am and I peeled my way out of the harbor with great caution as it is a busy place. The forecast called for 12 knots out the ESE and that is pretty much what I had. Between St. Thomas and St. John is a sound called Pilsbury Sound. The seas were lumpy and chaotic due to a lot of current. However Christa was running strong with a full main and the Yanmar cranking along at 2500rmp.

Now awhile back in Salinas I had met a very nice couple on SV Free Spirit and they had offered the use of their mooring in Coral Bay. Of course I am all over it! So I had been in touch with Free Spirits neighbor on St. John, Bill from SV Marlat who coincidentally had left a comment on this blog saying to keep an eye open for Jeff and Susan on Free Spirit. Another great small world story. Any who as I pulled behind johnsons reef there was Bill on Marlat who directed me to said mooring. Beautiful. The beauty of the place is shocking to the senses. More later.


Capt Chris

New Town New Culture

I departed Ensenada Dakity and sadly waved to Wandering Dolphin as I made my way out of the cut. I finally left Puerto Rico astern yesterday morning. I slipped the mooring at sunrise on a southeast 5-10 knot forecast and light seas for the 20 mile trip to windward. The conditions were a little more lumpy than I had anticipated and it was the first time I've had to contend with any kind of current. Nothing to get sweaty about though, but it did cause the sea to be a bit bumpy. Once I arrived it was a bit of a to do to find a spot. I had intended on anchoring on the west side of Water Island where the guide indicated it was nice and protected. However the water was very deep and where the water depth was manageable private moorings existed. After nearly two hours of trying to get things worked out I started locking up. So I headed straight to the hustle and busl of the Charlotte Amalie main harbor where I am anchored right off the cruise ship dock. It is a little crowded but not nearly as much as I thought and also a couple of boats I recognize from my travels are here as well. Really looking forward to having Wandering Dolphin make the 20 mile jump....so hurry up!

I am anchored right off the newly built Yacht Haven complex that caters to the mega yacht industry. The area has beautiful facilities with shops. I have already located my core needs of coffee shop (of which I sit currently) a bookstore and a marine store. So today, my first full day here in St. Thomas will be spent checking out some sights. I have a small fuel leak and need to find a Yanmar dealer to discuss and buy some fuel hose. Yesterday it rained buckets with some thunderstorms late in the afternoon and evening. Hopefully it will be a little nicer today.

So future plans include me heading to St. Johns likely on Sunday. I have been focused on St. Johns for quiet awhile and look forward to spending at least a month or more on said island.

Capt Chris

Ensenada Dakity Anchorage

Here is an aerial view of Christa's current position, located behind a wonderful barrier reef. The anchorage has multiple free moorings put in by the Department of Natural Resources and is clearly a favorite of most cruisers. I moved out to the anchorage a couple of days ago. I don't have to rave about how beautiful it is, the picture tells the story. I spent a couple of hours yesterday in "big blue" which is my kayak. As an aside, I could have an entire separate blog for "big blue", which has seen its share of adventure. Both with and without me. Anyway it was a very calm and peaceful morning and I simply skulked along the reef and shoreline. Critters abound in this sparely populated part of the island.

To get to town is a little bit of a to do. It is about a 30 minute brisk walk one way. So what most cruisers do is simply spend a few days out at the reef and go back to town in the big boat for a few days to resupply. It would be a very easy pattern for me to fall into. But.....

A very calm few days are in store for the next few days in the NE Caribbean. I plan on taking advantage to make some easy easting. It already has been 8 days since I arrived in Culebra. Tomorrow mooring I plan on slipping the mooring for the 20 mile jump to St. Thomas USVI where I'll spend some time and then it is onto St. Johns USVI. I likely will spend a month or more in St. Johns as I await the arrival of Janina in December.

Have a nice day!

Capt Chris

The Reefs of Culebra

Team Wandering Dolphin swung by this morning in "The Bus" for a snorkeling expedition to the reefs on the western shore. The mission was a total success. The reefs and the associated aquatic critters were equal to or better than what I experienced in the Bahamas. We visited two different reefs each choked with healthy fan coral, brain coral and all kinds of tropical fish. After the viewing we headed for a beautiful beach with picnic tables and had some lunch. Wrapped things of up by 12:30pm just in time for some afternoon rest! Now I have to confess that I did not take said picture. The picture was taken by Team Prudence who have spent the huricanne season here in Culebra. But the picture was taken on the same reef from today and in any event it represents exactly what we experienced today.

It has been one of those near perfect days. Nothing in the future to worry about and much to anticipate, the present is near perfect with gentle trades and many options. I've been playing my guitar and doing alot of reading. I have an evening run and a nice meal to look forward to. More later.

Capt Chris

Happy Halloween!

I continue to get my bearings on Culebra. Case in point I made my way over to Casa Ensenada to get my haircut from an English lady named Karen. Here are the results. My forehead continues to expand in lock step with the economic bailout plan. What can I say I am a retiree.

I like Culebra very much. For starters I think the temperature is 5 to 10 degrees cooler than Salinas with a fresh breeze even blowing at night. There seems to be a modest amount of cruisers and gringos that run businesses around the island. I hate to say it but it is a fact that the gringos simply run more efficient services. This is not to imply that the locals are not friendly. On the contrary the place seems very friendly. I did have a puking incident after a bean dish this afternoon at Mamacitas. I think my body is rejecting beans as the last time I had them several weeks back in Salinas I had the same reaction. So I feel much better but missed the kids haunted house deal with the Burton crew at Abbey School. But Wandering Dolphin and I, minus the kids are going back to Mamacitas for a late night Halloween bash. I'll avoid the beans and dress as the guy with a new haircut.

Capt Chris

Today's Photo

I'm getting my groove back no doubt. Today I took a hike in early afternoon and made my way to a hill with a big ole cistern on top where I snapped this pic. Christa sits amongst the sailboats yander. I also made my way to the library which is par for me as many of you know I love books and libraries. What is really cool about the Culebra library is that Sheryle from Prudence works their. The Culebra library is actually a trailer that runs on a Kubota diesel generator with a very nice selection. Now it may not have the charm of the Boston library in term of structure but it was purchased and then donated by an American family that bought and dedicated it in honor of there daughter who died in a plane crash in 1996. Plus it has AC, always critical to the cruiser in the tropics.

So I was able to gather all relevant information needed for a stay. Located the marine store, propane guy, gas station, laundry facility and breakfast joint. Prudence also schooled me in the numerous reefs to go snorkeling around. Another big piece of news is I located an English lady who cuts hair. I have not had a haircut in 13 months, and I think it is time.

This evening I went for an evening run which is always a thrill when you don't know the terrain, but I found a nice 4 mile circuit around the harbor that has a few hills.

Now I do have to remind myself it still is hurricane season and a system is midway between the Cape Verdes and the Lesser Antilles. All the experts agree that it should sheer itself apart in a day or two. But I am in a much more exposed position here in Culebra, although mangroves do exist here. The harbor is completely sealed off from the sea but in certain directions you can have up to 1 mile of fetch. In any event November hurricanes in this area are rare although pesky depressions and Tropical Storms can creep up. Enough of that. Have a nice day!

Capt Chris

Spanish Virgin Islands

Dropped anchor this morning in Ensenda Hondal harbor in Culebra. Wandering Dolphin and I raised anchor about 7:30pm last night in a near calm and carefully avoided the reef that protects Patilla. The conditions were just beautiful with no moon, the sky a planatarium to be studied and the seas were navigated easily. The test came when we rounded Punta Tuna on the southeast coast where we would be exposed to the full force of the elements if the elements were present. The seas became a little bumpy due to the depth rising rapidly, but we stayed in at least 1000 fathoms and it was no problem. Once thing I wanted to mention is we were approached twice by boats with no lights. It was Customs and Border Protection who have a very robust presence all along Puerto Rico. A week ago back in Salinas CBP hauled in two sailboats with 65 Dominicans crammed into the cabin. Illegal Immigration in Puerto Rico is a serious problem and between the Coast Guard, FURA, The Policia and the Dept of Natural Resources they have assets just about everywhere. So anyway they came whaling on in with a spotlight shined in my eyes with the usual questions of last port of call and next port of a call and all that. Some folks get so upset but not me as I used to be the guy on the other side of the spot light in my former life. Onward. Once we rounded the NW tip of Vieques it became apparent we were making very good time and we'd arrive before sunrise so we eased on back. Pretty soon the lights of Culebra and St. Thomas were present on the horizon. The entrance to Culebra is riddled with reefs but all are very well buoyed, thank you USCG and it was an straight forward navigation detail. There is an anchorage called Dakity that sits behind a beautiful coral reef and has tons of free moorings just west of the entrance, I hope to move out to Dakity in a day or two and enjoy the isolation and clear clear water. But for now I'm anchored just off the runway on the north end of Ensenada Honda in very good holding. Quite pleased with the situation to say the least. But just as I was drifting off to sleep an prop job flew about 100 feet over my main hatch.....that may become upsetting at some point.

One more thing, I was going to do a long blurb on my long stay in Salinas but have decided against it. I have good things to say about Salinas and it served my purposes well, but the drama became stifling and I will just leave it at that. Cruisers that spend alot of time in one place for awhile can identify, clicks form, emotions swell and it usually rears its head at the dingy dock. Genesis of all problems amongst cruisers always erupts at the dingy dock.


Capt Chris

Broke Suction. Rolling!

Anchored Puerto Pattilla, south east coast Puerto Rico

Ahoy. I weighted anchor from Salinas PR yesterday morning and > made my way 6 miles to an anchorage adjacent to the Jobos mangrove > system to pre-stage myself prior to heading into the Caribbean Sea > early this morning. During the short transit to my pre-stage > anchorage I ran up the Yanmar to full power and ran most of the > other systems, raised sail (first time in 8 months) and pretty much > ensured that I had no weaknesses. I'm happy to report that Christa > ran strong and all systems are G. I am also excited to report that > the Burton Family aboard Wandering Dolphin of Rudyard Montana joined > me in the anchorage at sunset last night. They also were struggling > to break the ties from Salinas. It's wonderful to caravan with > another boat. > > Our original plan was to sail our the Boca de Inferno inlet at > sunset last night and sail all night and hopefully make the west end > of Vieques Island by sunrise. But the forecast was for 13 to 18 > knots on the nose of course and a 8 to 9 foot long period north > swell. That large north swell could make some areas of transit > tricky as the north facing beaches are predicting max 16 breakers. > It was not worth it as the forecast is improving greatly over the > next couple of days. So instead Wandering Dolphin and I weighted > anchor by 5 am and made an easy, pleasurable trip 17 miles east to > the little fishing village on the SE point of PR. The trip was easy > with no strain in early morning calm. We watched a wonderful sunrise > as we motor sailed at 5 knots. We had the anchor down by 8:30 am > right off the beach. It is very picturesque. Palm trees line the > beach with towering green mountains in the backdrop. Beautiful. > > So the current plan is to rest here all day and weight anchor about > 8pm and make the 30 mile or so sail to Vieques. If the conditions > are nice as expected and were making good time we may decide to go > the extra 20 miles to Culebra where I plan on spending two or three > weeks before moving to St. Thomas/St. John USVI, St. Thomas is only > 20 miles east of Culebra. > > More later. > > > Capt Chris >

Going to try and Break Suction

Well my time here in Salinas is coming to an end. I'm hoping to make the 60 mile jump Sunday and to Culebra in the Spanish Virgin Islands. In terms of weather it is the usual mix bag. I am very very happy to report the tropics are quiet and no models forecast any type of hurricane formation. So were happy about that. On the other hand, it is the usual story where I need to move at night when the trades are at there lightest...one hope. I will continue to motor sail to windward really until I get to the Virgin Islands. One more 80 mile hop from the Virgins to St. Maarten in a couple of months and then I truly start to trade wind sail in earnest.

Well I'm going to go for an evening run before the sunsets and I will finish this post when I can or I may do another blog entry. I have some thoughts on Salinas and my nearly eight months here.

Capt Chris