Showing posts with label Carriacou. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Carriacou. Show all posts

Tuesday, May 19, 2009

Running in the Islands


Since I left the US in 2007 I have managed pretty much to keep up with the habit of running. Aside from the obvious health benefits, I have found another unexpected benefit. Quick immersion into the local population. To understand better what I'm saying think Forrest Gump. "I just felt like runninga." To Jackson Browne's "Running on Empty" or the Doobies "it keeps you Runnin" portions of the film chronicles Forrest's trek across America taking in the different scenery and the idiosyncratic nature of different parts of the United States. All kinds of things happen to Forrest along the way. He becomes a celebrity, triggers a bumper sticker empire and generally inspires a nation. My running throughout the islands have not be so grandiose, but it surely has been enlightening.

When I arrive to a new destination I will automatically start looking for a running circuit. I will normally run for 45 minutes to an hour and like a stretch of 5 to 6 miles. Some places are so small this becomes a challenge. Or a place like St John is simply to dangerous to run on the road. Few people living in the Caribbean exercise. In fact I have made a anecdotal link between poverty and lack of exercise. But that is another topic. So it is with great interest that the local population will stop what they are doing and stare at me when I run by. For the most part my route will take me into neighborhoods and areas that few if ever any tourists or white people venture. It seems there are few reasons a tourist would venture to these areas. Like Forrest, when I start out I just keep running to get my pattern figured out. I run at the same time each day, usually between 5 and 6 pm to avoid the heat and this is when most people are outside. For the most part the populations I have observed are very family oriented, lack television and other electronic gizmos which triggers people to just hang out front. They usually have music blasting. Music is very important to the people of the Caribbean. After I establish my route and pass by individual houses a few times the people and even the animals get used to my presence. I wave at most people as I pass and at first, with hesitation they will wave back. Old folks always wave with a toothy grin. After a week or two it feels as if I've been excepted into the fold. People wave or don't bother as I'm no longer a novelty. When I'm not running people in town will start to recognize me as the guy who runs. I do have issues with dogs in certain places and as I mentioned before I got nipped while in Bequia. But most of the dogs act mean and sometimes when they follow I'll turn on them and they run the other direction. It is not the best situation, but one that won't prevent me from running. Of all the places I've run, Puerto Rico was hands down the worse for aggressive dogs.

Carriacou is the best running island I have discovered yet. This place is great. The geography is more rolling hills vice the volcanic mountains. I am always amazed when the attitude of a population changes so dramatically with just a short sail. I have found the people of Carriacou to be very very nice, industrious and happy. Some poverty but clearly several notches above St Vincent and the Grenadines. This fact has made my two runs here delightful. I met a retired British Commando the day I arrived who also was an avid runner. He told me I would love it. Actually what he said was "it's brilliant mate brilliant." In fact just about everything he said was "brilliant mate brilliant." I ran along the south shore, dodging cows and goats. The small amount of car traffic slowed down instead of trying to run me off the road which has happened elsewhere. The bulk of the island is not developed at all. The sweeping views looking south were just beautiful, just like Forrest running through the desert. You get a different perspective at a running pace, just as you get a different perspective at a sailing pace compared to the speed of a ship. And after the run the dip in the ocean is sweet!

Capt Chris

PS: Don't forget to check in with My Photo Album link. I've uploaded most of the pics from the Tobago Cays.

Saturday, May 16, 2009

New Nation....Grenada

Anchored Tyrell Bay, Island of Carriacou
Nation of Grenada
12 27'.41N 061 20'.22W





I left the Tobago Cays a couple of days ago and made the surprisingly rough 4 mile trip to Union Island which is the last island in the nation of St Vincent and the Grenadines.
I arrived and took a mooring in Cliffton Harbor that is notorious for its poor holding. The mooring looked very suspect, maintenance not looking to be a high probability. I didn't want to pay for a mooring for any length of time and besides I just did not have a good vibe about Union Island. It started with the haggling for the mooring fee from the boat boys. After I got situated and lashed to the dingy dock a bunch of locals hanging out at the dock drinking beer started hassling me to pay them a "tax." I asked what for? And they said so they can go and buy more beer. It would be comical if they were not serious and persistent, but they were. I did not pay them said tax. In any event, I'm over this type of behavior and decided at that moment I would spend as little time as possible on Union. I went directly to Customs and checked out of St Vincent and the Grenadines. I'm sure the vast number of people on Union are friendly, but they don't seem to regulate the very few who offend. No one really gets a warm feeling coming ashore at 11 am with a gang of young men smoking weed and drinking beer and then have them demand money. I spent a windy day and night aboard Christa and left for Carriacou, an Island that belongs to Grenada just 6 miles to the south of Union. Attitude wise, its seems, a world away from Union.

For starters no boat boys come racing out to the boat to help or hassle and second the first grocery store I went into had paper coffee filters. I felt very welcome indeed. Further more I've left the charter boat world behind as I think having them check in and out of Customs is a drag on their chartering time, so they simply stay within the St Vincent administered islands.

So in the 24 hours I've spent here on Carriacou I can say with my limited experience it is a place I could spend a great deal of time in. The Carriacou Yacht Clud, where I type to you from has all the amenities for a reasonable price that overlooks Christa and Tyrell Bay. I had a great pizza last night and met a 70 year old German cruiser who may be one of the most interesting people I have ever met. He bought his boat in Yugoslavia during the war and sailed "Magic Carpet Ride" under Serbian artillery fire out of the marina after the survey. He then sailed through a Naval blockade. Very cool stuff. Now the picture above was taken from just above the Yacht Club overlooking Tyrell Bay. You can see the weather is stormy and it is very humid. H-season is nearly upon us and the weather reflects that.







I pulled the above graphic off the Internet. Carricou is highlighted in green and the big island of Grenada is just to the south. I likely will spend at least a couple of weeks here before sailing down the eastern side of Grenada to St. Davids on the south coast. Notice all the finger like bays that are speckled along the south and east side of Grenada. One of those deep bays is St Davids and Grenada Marine where I will haul Christa out for the season.

Please take the time and check out My Google Photo Album. I've uploaded all the pictures from my time in the Tobago Cays and they are beautiful.


Capt Chris


Don't forget you can double click on any images and they should expand out for max viewing