Rolled to St Thomas

Capt Chris
01/18/2009, Anchored Water Island St Thomas

Ahoy! I slipped the mooring line this morning from Maho Bay as the sun was rising. Check out the pic I snapped as I was leaving on a rare dead calm that had engulfed the entire island chain. As it was Sunday morning I seemed to be the only boat moving which added to the peacefulness. It was a three hours motor sail to Water Island. I had the anchor down in 30 feet of clear water right next to Wandering Dolphin. It is wonderful to be back next to my peeps! I'll have more to say later on.

Capt Chris

As Maho Turns

Capt Chris, squalls, rain
01/17/2009, Maho Bay, North Coast St John USVI

I feel for you folks up in the North Country. The bone chilling temperatures are really shocking. Of course it is in the 80's here in Maho Bay. But surprisingly enough a tropical wave is passing through bringing with it squalls and plenty of rain but nothing to the tune of what I experienced this passed summer. So I decided to stay here in Maho Bay and wait for the weather to improve.

On a down note, Janina has departed good ship Christa and headed back to Florida to pick up some employment. We will miss her. On an up note since I've moved over to the north shore of St John I have been able to pick back up the running habit again. Yesterday was the first day I was able to run in about two months. The route is magnificent along the north shore road. I have wonderful views of Virgin Gorda sound and the British Virgin Islands and in the afternoons waning sun the hues of the water are spectacular.

It has been nearly a week since arriving in Maho Bay. I established a pretty good daily routine that swirls around the Maho Bay Eco-Lodge and the many wonderful guests that continue to come and go. In particular a program is in secession called Omega. It is a program that entails the yoga/mind body experience and is basically a retreat. The resort is the perfect place for such a program for people to come in and unplug from the rat race. A very loving bunch indeed. So I pretty much have been hanging out with the Omega folks during meal times. The lodge serves very good food in a cafeteria-style setting. So all hands are present for the meals. I also headed into Cruz Bay one night with 3 Omega ladies for dinner and we laughed and laughed. It was nice to have some company to cushion the blow of Janina's departure.

I likely will pull chocks tomorrow and sail back to St Thomas to take advantage of the provisioning and the hustle and busle of the "big city." Plus I will need to take my new Yamaha 4 HP outboard to the dealer for the 10 hour servicing or the warranty will be voided. Speaking of my new outboard. Love it! Part of said love surly has to do with the reliability factor but also with double the horses. The dink planes very nicely and I simply can get places much quicker. On the flip side, the motor is much heavier which strains the stern pulpit where I stow the motor.

I likely will settle into St Thomas for an unknown length of time waiting and watching for a weather window to either get me to St Martin. Tom and Amy from Sandpiper are now in El Carib and I very much want to hook up with them. So I will entertain a straight shot to St Lucia given the correct weather.

I snapped this picture from Christa which shows a nice view of one of the beaches in the bay just after an afternoon rain shower.

Capt Chris

In Maho Bay with Christa

Capt Chris, 80's, winds East 15 to 22 knots
01/12/2009, Maho/Francis Bay

Well the new outboard is working like a champ and that pleases me greatly. The downfall of the Honda 2 HP delayed our intended departure from Coral Bay by a couple of days. So in true fashion the weather window closed and the winds picked up. However we only intended to do the 3 hour sail to Maho Bay on the north shore. I decided to suck it up.

We had the anchor up by sunrise and began the arduous bash to windward. We had numerous squalls with heavy downpours and occasional wind to 30 knots. Thankfully, the proximity of so many islands blunts the size of the ocean swells but you still need to do the Caribbean two-step into the 4-foot chop. We motorsailed out way around the east end of St John and made the turn into Virgin Gorda sound which brought the wind around to a more respectable angle. From they're just a 5-mile downwind run to Francis and Maho Bay on the north shore.

Christa is now safely lashed to a National Parks Mooring in Francis Bay/Maho Bay. It really is one large bay and for some unknown naming convention is split into Maho/Little Maho and Francis Bay. I love it here. Were moored just under the Eco-Lodge with its jungle like atmosphere and white sand beaches. But more importantly for me the bay is very well protected with calm conditions. Last night several mega yachts came and dropped anchor further out in the bay. These ships are really impressive. Suddenly the whole anchorage was alive with wi-fi signals but all of them password protected. At night they will turn on underwater floodlights which makes the coolest aqua marine glow.

The cruising plan is still evolving. I am still learning about myself and what my desires are. Admittedly they change. I like to immerse and don't like feeling the pressure of having to move to the next tropical island. I have found that naturally a place wears thin and then I need to move on. But for now with the hurricane season well astern and no immediate need to get down island I think we'll just enjoy the local area. I do see heading back to St Thomas soon to stock up on provisions. I also have a fungal infection on my left index finger that I have already seen a doctor about. It just is not going away and I think I need to see a dermatologist. Also it seems a ton of cruisers are piling in St Thomas and I miss the community. So I still intend to head further east and then south but it just may take me awhile as the Christmas trades have filled in. A weather window could be a ways out.


Capt Chris

Outboard Woes

Capt Chris, 80's, winds East 15 to 20 knots
01/10/2009, Coral Bay St John

Pictured is my new Yamaha 4 horse four stroke outboard purchased today in St Thomas. The passed 3 days have swirled around outboard troubles. I've been trying to shake off the troubles with the Honda 2 horse which was less than five years old. I had a fuel leak deriving from a rusted carb bowl which was masking the fact that I had an oil leak as well. So after spending nearly 100 boat dollars to have the carb fixed, the very next day much larger problems developed. Oil was leaking into the exhaust somewhere which killed it. It likely can be fixed but at great expense. I just bought a new engine. I had been thinking about upgrading anyway as the two horse was not cutting it.

For the folks back home having an outboard go out is tantamount to having car trouble but worse. You see, if your car breaks well you just drift on over to the side of the road. If the outboard craps out your really in a bind. Most dinks are terrrible for rowing and your generally left adrift which is just what happened to Janina and I. I had to swim a very long way back to Christa while Janina nursed her fresh bee sting. Why a bee is out on the ocean still is a mystery. But I got back to Christa and got her fired up and slipped the mooring to go rescue Janina in the dink. Since we now had no way ashore I decided to anchor down in Coral Bay which is less isolated than Johnsons Bay.

So with this trauma I flew into action and made my way to St Thomas and Offshore Marine. I am so thankful for Wandering Dolphin as they were their to help me with the whole thing. I picked up the new motor and spent the night aboard Wandering Dolphin after they bought me a big juicy steak at a nice hotel overlooking the harbor. Next day we shared a breakfast and Christopher dropped me and the new motor at the ferry dock. All in all the mission was complete in less than 24 hours which is amazing to me. But I am now shy $1380 dollars.

So I spent sometime breaking new motor in today. Ran like a champ. So tomorrow, weather pending Janina and I are going to make the sail over to the north shore and grab a mooring at Maho Bay.

More later

Capt Chris

Maho Bay Eco Lodge Trip

Capt Chris
01/07/2009, Maho Bay, North Coast St John USVI

Things have been quite busy the past few days with limited time for me to write up a blog entry and Internet has been limited. So please forgive my lack of entries.

So as of the moment I'm jamming out this entry on my MacBook sitting in the Maho Bay Eco-Resort over looking the gorgeous Maho Bay. It really is a sight to behold. I fear that I may sound like a broken record with all my enthusiasm for the views. I would not want to mislead anyone. While the beauty is substantial nothing is easy here on St John. In fact I have come to call St John "The Island of inconvenience." It really is inline with the paradox of the cruising life. While the rewards are quite substantial the level of effort required to realize said rewards can grate on you. Please keep in mind that I am not a normal tourist. For someone who may come to St John and stay in The Westin or Caneel Bay you would see little of the inconvenience hat I complain about. However you will pay through the teeth. These resorts have set up whole processes to circumvent the lack of infrastructure and frankly avoid the local population who are less than thrilled about the tourist invasion. But the cruising life is all about soaking into the local population so you can learn about them. I'm finding I love my American culture very much. Onward.

Janina has a friend visiting so we have been all over the place. The past two nights we stayed at the Cinnamon Bay Campground. While once again the surroundings were just beautiful the campground itself, run by the National Parks Service left much to be desired. We didn't see any rangers so I think it is all contract labor from the local population and unfortunately it was administered like many other things on the island. The tents were okay, but the beds were circa WW2 and even I, the guy who has been sleeping on cushions for years awoke many times longing for the Doans pills. I don't want to continue to gripe, just suffice it to say the cots were just the beginning of a disappointing stay. However....

As mentioned before we are not at the Maho Bay Eco-Lodge, run by a non-profit conservation deal of some sort and is a purring operation no doubt. We are very pleased thus far. These cool wooden lodges sit on stilts that surround the hills overlooking Maho Bay, has a well stocked mini-mart, restaurant, yoga, glass blowing, sailing tours and good coffee thank god. For four people the cost is $160 a night. A definite step up from the campground. But for those looking for max comfort in the vein of a Marriott you'll need to...... well look for a Marriott.

So tomorrow Janina a crew head back over to St Thomas for the night to get her friends safely back on a plane. I'll head back to good ship Christa who I miss. I will also swing by Coral Bay Marine to pick up the outboard motor which I repaired. The carburator bowl rusted through and was leaking fuel. So some JB Weld took care of the situation. Future plans and intentions should see Janina and I leaving Johnson Bay ASAP. Since Maho Bay has been so nice I'm thinking of coming over and lashing up to a National Parks Mooring ($15 a night) and hang out for a day or two. But soon we'll head to Jost Van Dyke and start our sojourn to the British Virgin Islands.

Something I did fail to mention awhile back was my termination for captain's duties aboard Sadie Sea. The boat was constantly breaking down and since I am not a mechanic capt Ben had to keep coming out to repair his boat. After awhile it just was a waste of his money to have me running the boat. So he took the boat back over with no hard feelings between us. Just a business choice.

Well that is it for now. Keep checking My Google Photo Album as I keep updating pictures to the Virgin Island Folder.

Capt Chris

Movie Night Set Up!

Capt Chris
01/03/2009, Coral Bay ST John

Here is a picture of the movie night set up on Water Island. Enjoy!

Capt Chris

Good Times In the VI!

Capt Chris, weather is beautiful
12/31/2008, Honey Moon Bay, ST Thomas

Janina took this shot the other day while we were over on St Thomas। From left is Christopher Burton from Wandering Dolphin, the sea maiden RJ then the kid followed by Lynne and Nick from Wakefield RI.

My worlds all kind of collided recently. Now Lynn and Nick have a place on Water Island which sits right off of St Thomas. It just so happens it is the same spot that Wandering Dolphin is based out of. Even funnier is that Janina met a new friend RJ on Christmas. So Janina took a day to visit RJ in St Thomas while I took a day to head on over to see Lynn and Nick on Water Island. So RJ planned on taking Janina to see a movie on the beach which just so happens to be playing on Water Island pretty much in the exact spot I was already planning on going to. Reunited again. So for good measure we got in touch with Wandering Dolphin and took this shot. I am in the twilight zone. Movie night on Honey Moon Beach is something special. Every Monday the local residents stretch a piece of canvas between two palms and project a movie up on the screen. It really is wonderful to sit on the beach and take in a movie with great friends.

Now Lynne and Nick are just the greatest. I've now known them for 17 years. They own a boat yard/marina in Rhode Island near where I was stationed at Point Judith Coast Guard Station. I took a job with the them on my days off from CG duty to paint bottoms or pretty much do whatever. I have since kept in touch with them. In fact when I had Christa trucked from California to the east coast I had the boat delivered to Silver Springs Marine in Wakefield. Lynne, Nick and Dave Olsen took care of me and Christa during all the upheavel.

It All Happens On the Bus

Capt Chris, 80, NE 25 KNOTS GUSTING INTO THE 30'S
12/27/2008, St John, USVI

The St John Bus Service really is the first time in my life I've used public transportation for any period of time. I certainly hope that public transport back in the states is a little more squared away than down here.

Case in the point. The Pic. Janina snapped this gem right after about a gallon of water created by the bus's malfunctioning AC system dumped over my head and down my back. I was picking about two years worth of rust chips out of my scalp. Of course the bus driver was fully aware of this fact but could care less to warn anyone. I have found some of the locals to be less than nice and in fact dislike every bus driver with the exception of one older guy. Most need a serious attitude adjustment.

One day the driver stopped a full 20 minutes with a bus load of people while she went a got something to eat. Another day the bus whipped around a corner at flank speed sending a 300 pound women tumbling into the doors head first. I watched the doors straining under the load and thought for sure those doors were going to let loose. Of course the driver was texting when this incident occured. On Janina's first day the bus broke down and we had to transfer bus's which really is par. But a new bus experience ensued when the driver passed the town dumpsters, otherwise known as Coral Bay K-Mart, only to slam to a halt and throw the bus in reverse. A full dumpster diving operation took place with the passengers looking on. He popped out with an antique radio. He's all smiles and kept saying "it's an antique it's an antique" and I chimed in "just like our bus."

Like I said it all happens on the bus.

Capt Chris

Ahoy!

Capt Chris, Christmas winds are blowin
12/26/2008, Coral Bay ST John

Janina took this picture of myself and our neighbor Gramm who lives in Johnson Bay. It was taken yesterday on Hawksnest Beach north shore of St John. Due to Gramm we really had a special day yesterday on Christmas. It is a little weird because to me it did not feel anything like Christmas. But it was a great day none the less.

I first meet Gramm the day I arrived in Johnson Bay. He is very interesting and a very very nice person. But the day I arrived he hooted at me from his boat to anchor no where near him. Not exactly the welcome wagon. But he soon came on over and introduced himself and apoligized and simply explained that he really really values his solitude. I totally get it and is the reason many people arrange themselves on the east end of St John.

Gramm and I share one thing in common and that is sobriety. I think when he found this out about me he breathed a sigh of relief as he knew he would not have to hear any drunken 3 am epiphanes in the anchorage. So a few weeks back he invited me up to Hawksnest Beach for a potluck get together on Christmas day. So at 930 am we jumped in Gramms truck and drove along the beautiful north shore road to the beach. Their we met a bunch of other sober folks who live both on St John and St Thomas and some of them are snow birds. An AA meeting took place right on the edge of the ocean and then we ate some good home cooking. It was very mellow and relaxing. No one fell off the wagon as far as I could tell.

Then Gramm took us to many overlooks on the north coast with spectacular views of Jost Van Dyke and the rest of the BVI's. We even went to the very sparsely populated east end of the island. Just beautiful. A great day!

Thanks Gramm

Capt Chris

No Longer A Solo Sailor

Capt Chris, sunny, 80's, light northwind
12/19/2008, Cruz Bay St John, USVI

With a buzz of activity Janina arrived in St Thomas the other day where I met her at the airport. She had a very long day of flight delays and missed connections but arrived in the evening. I did a charter the same day and barely made my ferry connection from St John to St Thomas.

Once I arrived in St Thomas I made my way through the main town of Charlotte Amalie to the Bunker Hill Hotel located in the hills to check in as I had some breathing room time wise. Top priority to was to use as much hot water as I desired and lounge in the AC and watch some TV. So that's what I did.

I bugged out from the hotel in search/knowledge of the taxi situation here on St. Thomas. Pretty much the tourists are treated.....well as tourist's....using tourist type fee schedules. I needed to figure out which is the Safri versus the Taxi as the Safari is a buck and the taxi is god knows what. The issue being the Safari and Taxi are identical and both say Taxi on them. I quickly figured out that the vehicle crammed with West Indians was the Safari and so that is what I flagged down. I made it to the airport with plenty of time to spare. During the wait I befriended a fellow who was reading a USAA statement and knew he'd be a federal employee. Well turns out he had been a Foreign Service Officer for 30 years with all kinds of good stories. He worked mostly in Central America and was an agricultural guy. With funding from the American Government he would seek out poor farmers and guide them to plant crops that had a market demand instead of planting the same old thing. This lead to better economic conditions for the farmer and had the added benefit of crop rotation preserving the soil. Really fascinating guy and even funnier was the fact he worked in the Embassy for several years in Ecuador and this is where Janina draws her roots.

Time flew and before I knew Janina's tired self came off the little aircraft from San Juan. After just missing a large deluge of rain we made it safely back to the Bunker Hill Hotel and pretty much went right to sleep.

Seeing that we would have strained ourselves to accomplish necessary tasks we decided to stay another night on St Thomas. In the morning we dashed down the Bad Ass Coffee shop for some good Hawaiian coffee and the free wi-fi. We then made contact with Team Wandering Dolphin who are anchored in Honey Moon Cove on Water Island. We journey via Safari to Tickles Restaurant and Bar at a local Marina, that Rebecca just so happens to work at. Rebecca met us at the dock in a borrowed dink and off we went to Wandering Dolphin.

We had such a nice visit. It was great to see the gang, especially in such a beautiful cove. The Cove is a white sand beach with palm trees and a burger joint and everything you'd pretty much expect in the Virgin Islands. So Janina and I hung out on the beach with the Burton Family, swing with the kids on the rope swings and enjoying the great weather and senenery. It was a brief visit to Team WD, but we had to shuffle back from Water Island back to St Thomas and on to our hotel again. With a sinful pit stop at Pizza Hut under our belts, once again we were tired and went to bed just about immediately.

As an aside.....I've had an ongoing medical issue that finally got to the point where I needed to see a doctor. In short I have a fungus that has gotten under my nail and has infected my left hand index finger. It started swelling and really looks knarly. So I went to a clinic in Charlotte Amalie and here is what I have. Onychia and Paronychia of the Finger and Dermatophytosis of the body. So I need to get a prescription filled and put some goop on it twice a day. So uncool as I am left handed and trying to keep my hands clean and dry appear to be near impossible. But this incident will be my first attempt at navigating my Tricare Insurance that I get as a retired military guy. Should be a real hoot. Also for other cruisers and would be cruisers the cost of the visit was $185 big ones.

Ok so after all business had been taken care of we hopped aboard the ferry back to St John. Since Janina plans on staying long term she had a bit of luggage which I feared would impact our bus trip back to Coral Bay. Thankfully the big bus was running instead of the short bus. But as is always the case the bus turned in some notable adventure. Halfway up the mountain a flurry of activity and confusion erupts from the cockpit as we ground to a halt. Well wouldn't you know it we had to transfer to the short bus. We packed in barely and just when I though we were home free some more activity could be heard from the front of the bus. The driver spied an item in the dumpster as we drove by. He screeched to a halt, threw it in reverse and proceeded to do some dumpster diving. He emerged all smiles with an antique radio. He repeated over and over about how the radio was an antique. I observed that our bus also was an antique and I believe he readily agreed.

We made it back to Christa.

Janina came to work with me yesterday for a charter trip to pick up the hikers. The weather was beautiful with light north winds. Very unusual to have north winds and could have been a wonderful window to get further down island. Oh well. We did have some more trauma aboard Saddie Sea, but that is another story for another time.

I've very busy as of late and struggling to find time to update the blog and answer email. It looks like I'll be doing at least 3 to 5 days a week aboard Sadie.

More later


Capt Chris